Benadryl (diphenhydramine) is commonly used to treat allergies in dogs, but incorrect dosing can cause serious toxicity. Understanding the signs of overdose, how to respond quickly, and how to prevent accidental poisoning is critical for every dog owner.
What is Benadryl and How is it Used in Dogs?
Benadryl contains diphenhydramine, an antihistamine that blocks histamine receptors to reduce allergic reactions, itching, and inflammation. Vets sometimes prescribe Benadryl for:
- Allergies and itching
- Motion sickness
- Anxiety relief in stressful situations
- Mild sedation before procedures
However, Benadryl is not FDA-approved for pets and dosage must be carefully calculated by weight and health status.
How Much Benadryl is Safe for Dogs? Understanding the Dosage
The typical therapeutic dose for dogs is 1mg per pound of body weight given 2-3 times daily. Exceeding 5mg per pound is considered toxic and requires emergency veterinary care.
Image Credit: BetterVet
Example: For a 20 lb dog, a safe dose is about 20mg per dose. Consuming more than 100mg at once could be dangerous.
Note: Do not use human dosing charts or give Benadryl formulations with other active ingredients like decongestants.
Symptoms of Benadryl Overdose in Dogs
Recognizing symptoms early can save your dog’s life. Signs of overdose vary by severity:
Severe: Seizures, coma, cardiovascular collapse, death
If you see any of these symptoms after your dog ingests Benadryl, act immediately.
Emergency Response: What to Do if Your Dog Ate Too Much Benadryl
Calculate the amount ingested:
Toxicity Level = (mg of Benadryl consumed) ÷ (dog’s weight in lbs)
▶️ If >5mg/lb, seek emergency vet care immediately.
Contact emergency services:
ASPCA Poison Control: (888) 426-4435
Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661
Do NOT induce vomiting or give other medications unless instructed by a professional.
Prepare to transport your dog to a veterinary clinic for urgent treatment.
How Veterinarians Treat Benadryl Overdose in Dogs
At the clinic, vets use a multi-step approach:
Decontamination: Activated charcoal may be given to bind remaining drug in the stomach and intestines.
Supportive care: IV fluids, oxygen therapy, and continuous cardiac monitoring to stabilize vital functions.
Seizure control: Benzodiazepines or other anticonvulsants to stop seizures.
Advanced therapy: In severe cases, IV lipid therapy can help remove fat-soluble diphenhydramine from the bloodstream.
24-48 hour monitoring: To observe for delayed toxicity or complications.
Common Risk Factors That Increase Overdose Danger
Small dog breeds: Lower body weight means smaller margin for dosing errors.
Underlying health problems: Heart, liver, or kidney disease can reduce drug clearance.
Concurrent medications: Some drugs interact dangerously with diphenhydramine.
Use of human formulations: Many contain additional active ingredients toxic to dogs.
How to Prevent Benadryl Overdose in Your Dog
Risk Factor
Prevention Tips
Dosing mistakes
Always measure with vet-approved devices and calculate dose by weight.
Accidental ingestion
Keep medications out of reach in secure containers.
Confusing formulas
Use only pure diphenhydramine without additives.
Ignoring vet advice
Consult your veterinarian before giving any medication.
Additional Tips for Safe Allergy Treatment in Dogs
Consider allergy testing to identify triggers
Use alternative treatments like omega-3 supplements and hypoallergenic diets
Monitor for side effects anytime you start a new medication
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can dogs sense fear in humans?
While unrelated to Benadryl, dogs are highly sensitive to human emotions and may react to stress or fear.
Is Benadryl overdose in dogs always fatal?
No, but it can be life-threatening without prompt treatment.
How quickly do Benadryl overdose symptoms appear?
Symptoms can appear within 30 minutes to a few hours after ingestion.
Can I give my dog Benadryl without vet approval?
It's best to get a vet’s guidance to avoid dosing errors or contraindications.
Final Warning: Never Use Human Dosage Charts for Dogs
Studies show over 70% of online pet medication charts contain errors. Always consult your veterinarian and never rely solely on internet advice when giving Benadryl or any medication to your dog.
Remember, early recognition and rapid action can save your dog’s life. Stay informed, stay prepared!
Imagine coming home after a long day at work, eager to unwind and sleep. You pull back the covers, only to discover a wet spot - your cat has peed on your bed! Cats usually use their litter boxes well, but sometimes they eliminate inappropriately, which can strain your relationship, especially if it keeps happening. So, how do you stop your cat from peeing on your bed? First, find out why they're doing it. It could be a behavioral problem or a medical issue. Figuring out the reason will help you stop the behavior. Here's a look at why cats pee on beds and how to prevent it.
The 8 Tips and Tricks to Stop Your Cat From Peeing on Your Bed
Stopping your cat from peeing on your bed takes time and patience. Once you know the cause, you'll need to change some aspects of your cat's care and home environment. Here are some tips!
1. Use an Enzymatic Cleaner
When your cat pees on your bed, don't just wash the linens right away. Spray the spot with an enzymatic cleaner first. These cleaners get rid of urine odor, so your pet doesn't smell it and think it's okay to pee there again. It's an extra step, but it helps in the long run.
2. Veterinary Check-Up
When dealing with inappropriate elimination, rule out medical conditions. Consult your vet, who may examine your cat and recommend tests like bloodwork, urine tests, or imaging. If your cat has a medical condition, follow the vet's treatment plan to stop the bed-peeing.
3. Stress-Proof Your Home
You can't completely remove stress from your home, but if you know what's making your cat anxious, try to remove the stressor. If it's a big change like a new baby or a move, give your pet time to adjust and provide a safe place. Removing a stressor should make the behavior stop faster.
4. Fix the Litter Box
If you think your cat has issues with the litter box's location, type of litter, or cleaning, identify and fix the problem. Try different litters and move the box around. Remember, it shouldn't be near food and water and should be quiet. Have one litter box per cat plus an extra, and clean it daily and replace it weekly.
5. Synthetic Pheromones
Synthetic pheromones like Feliway, available as diffusers and sprays, mimic natural ones cats produce when they feel safe. After ensuring the toileting areas are good, add a Feliway diffuser to the room your cat spends most time in to calm them.
6. Interact With Your Cat More Often
Play with your cat every day! Playtime reduces stress and anxiety and helps you bond with your pet, making them happier and more relaxed.
7. Spray Your Bed With a Scent Kitty Hates
If other methods don't work, try deterrents. Spray your comforter with a scent your cat dislikes. Commercial sprays with citrus scents are available, but find a scent you can tolerate. Using unpleasant scents may help short-term, but address the root cause or the behavior may return.
8. Close the Door to Your Bedroom
Finally, close the bedroom door to keep your cat off the bed. While dealing with other factors, this restricts access. Your cat may use the litter box or pee elsewhere, but your bed will be safe.
Why Do Cats Pee on Beds
Cats pee on beds for several reasons.
Old Age
Older cats may have joint problems, making it hard to get in and out of the litter box. They may also have cognitive decline, forgetting where the litter box is and choosing the bed instead.
Anxiety
Cats can be anxious, and peeing on the bed is one way they deal with it. Urinating leaves pheromones that comfort them, making the bed a safer place. Reasons for anxiety include new homes, people, pets, fireworks, loud noises, and construction.
Health Issues
Many health conditions can cause a cat to pee on your bed, like feline idiopathic cystitis, urinary tract infections, diabetes, kidney disease, bladder stones, and incontinence.
Problems with the Litter Box
Cats are picky about the litter box. If it's not up to their standards in terms of litter type or location, or if it's not cleaned properly, they'll find another place to pee.
Conclusion
Cats pee on beds for various reasons, often medical. Determine the cause by visiting the vet and fixing litter box issues. Solving this problem takes time and patience. Avoid punishment, which can stress your cat. If the problem persists, consult a veterinary behaviorist.
The New Zealand Natural Pet Food Co was founded in 2016 by friends and pet parents Amber Cordero and Jacqueline Taylor. They aim to provide high-quality, wholesome food for beloved pets worldwide while being mindful of the planet. The company offers two lines of pet food: MEOW for cats and WOOF for dogs. All their products are made in small batches at their New Zealand facility, sourcing fair trade ingredients from local farms and suppliers with an eye for sustainability and ethical practices. Almost all meat and superfoods in their recipes are harvested in New Zealand and the surrounding waters. Their products are approved for all life stages, but some cats with specific health issues may not be a good match. They offer a variety of recipe options, including novel proteins, which is beneficial for cats with common food allergies.
Key Features
The MEOW line of The New Zealand Natural Pet Food Co has several key features. Firstly, their recipes feature whole raw meat ingredients, with several raw meat ingredients at the top of the ingredient list, making up around 97% of the total recipe. They also include ground bone and organ meat, which sets them apart from other freeze-dried pet food options. Ground bone offers calcium and bone marrow, while organ meat provides vitamins, minerals, and protein. None of the meat ingredients are exposed to heat or pressure, maintaining their nutrient content. Secondly, they add superfoods like kelp, New Zealand Green Mussel, manuka honey, organic virgin coconut oil, and hoki fish oil to their recipes. These superfoods offer various health benefits, such as boosting the immune system, improving dental health, and enhancing joint health. Thirdly, they minimally process their meals and treats, using freeze-drying or air-drying instead of heat or pressure processing. This preserves the nutrients and enzymes in the food. Finally, they offer multiple recipe options, including air-dried and freeze-dried diets and treats, with different textures and consistencies.
Reviews of Products
1. Chicken & King Salmon Air Dried Cat Food
This air-dried cat food is packed with protein from three animal sources. 97% of the food consists of quality ingredients like chicken with ground bone, chicken heart, lamb green tripe, king salmon with bone, and chicken liver, along with 3% superfoods and amino acid mineral complexes. It has a crunchy texture, is easy to feed, and requires no special preparation. However, it can be a bit crumbly and messy, and some may find it a bit greasy. It contains 40% protein and 38% fat.
2. Lamb & King Salmon Freeze Dried Cat Food
This freeze-dried cat food offers the benefits of raw in an easy-to-handle package. It contains six quality meat ingredients and 97% animal ingredients plus superfoods. It has a high fat content for extra energy, superfoods, and highly absorbable nutrients. The chunks are soft and easy to break or crumble, and it offers multiple preparation options. But it may require more work to prepare and the chunks are larger than typical pellet size.
3. Wild Venison Freeze Dried Cat Bites
These freeze-dried bites are similar to the meal recipes but in smaller packages. The wild venison recipe contains seven quality meat ingredients and a handful of superfoods. It is high in protein and lower in fat, making it suitable for less active cats. The pellets are large but easily broken up, and it can be used as a topper or a convenient meal option for travel. However, it may be a bit more expensive per ounce and the pellet size is larger than typical.
4. Beef Green Tripe Freeze Dried Cat Treats
These treats are highly palatable with a soft, chewy texture. They contain only beef green tripe and New Zealand green mussel, are packed with protein and healthy fats, and offer benefits for gut health. They are easy to break apart and come in a variety of flavors. However, they can be a bit messy.
Our Experience
The author's cat, Makoa, had a sensitive gut. After trying The New Zealand Natural Pet Food Co products, including air-dried food, freeze-dried food, and treats, Makoa showed a preference for them. He transitioned well to the new food, and after a couple of weeks, he had more energy, a softer coat, and his sensitive stomach held up during the transition. The author was impressed with the quality ingredients, which include novel proteins and superfoods, beneficial for cats with food allergies and all cats in general.
Conclusion
The author highly recommends The New Zealand Natural Pet Food Co's MEOW line. Their meals and treats are rich in protein from quality raw meat sources. The air-dried line is a good substitute for dry kibble, and the freeze-dried recipes are great for those wanting raw food easily. Makoa loves the products, and the author is satisfied knowing he is getting nutritious food made with sustainable and fair-trade ingredients.
We give The New Zealand Natural Pet Food Co brand an overall rating of 4.95 out of 5 stars.
Welcoming a new cat to the family is exciting for humans, but not always for resident cats. While some cats get along immediately, others need time to adjust. It's normal for cats to hiss when they first meet, as hissing is a form of communication. Read on to learn more about why cats hiss and how to help them get along.
How Much Hissing Should Be Expected When Introducing Cats?
Hissing is normal when introducing cats. They may hiss or swat at each other for weeks as they get to know each other. Hissing on its own isn't aggressive, but if accompanied by other aggressive behaviors, intervention is needed. Growling, hair standing on end, tense muscles, and pinned ears may indicate aggression.
Image Credit: Ilyas Kalimullin, Shutterstock
Why Do New Cats Hiss at Each Other?
1. Their Routine Is Disrupted
Resident cats are creatures of habit and don't like change. New additions can make them anxious, stressed, and confused. They may need more attention when a new pet arrives.
2. They Feel Trapped
Rushing introductions can make both cats feel trapped. Resident cats need time to get used to sharing space, and new cats are already stressed in a new home. Don't block exits and let them interact on their own time.
Image Credit: Anna Kraynova, Shutterstock
3. They Feel Their Space Is Being Encroached Upon
Resident cats may hiss because they feel their space is being invaded. Hissing can establish or reinforce the social hierarchy among cats. Dominant cats may also engage in other territorial behaviors.
4. They're Setting Boundaries
Cats are territorial and hiss to establish boundaries and authority. A hiss is a quick way to tell a newcomer to stop trespassing.
Image Credit: Anna Krivitskaya, Shutterstock
What Should I Do if My Cats Are Hissing at Each Other?
If hissing persists, there are steps you can take.
Sit It Out
Hissing is a form of communication. If it's constant, separate the cats and let them calm down. Intervene if there are aggressive behaviors.
Image Credit: Fang_Y_M , Pixabay
Introduce Them Slowly
Introductions should be slow and deliberate. Let the more fearful cat set the pace. The process can take days, weeks, or months.
Don't Be Afraid to Do Reintroductions
If introductions were rushed and cats are fighting, separate them and start over.
Image Credit: Nils Jacobi, Shutterstock
Provide Enough Resources
Aggression can result from cats feeling they have to share resources. Ensure each cat has its own litter box, food bowl, toys, scratching posts, and sleeping spots.
Final Thoughts
Hissing is normal during cat introductions. Cats need time to adjust to new situations. Introduce new cats slowly and let them set the pace. Don't rush the process.
You might be quite impressed with your cat’s ability to check out a tub of litter one time and know exactly what to do with it. Why can’t dogs be like that? Even though we’re super impressed with our felines’ bathroom habits, one must wonder—why do cats need a litter box? And what causes them to just know what they’re doing when they see one? It’s called instincts. Despite our cats being some of the most fearsome predators of their size, they still want to hide from animals bigger and higher up on the food chain than they are. So they bury their urine and feces as a way to hide their scent. In the wild, they may use dirt, sand, leaves, etc., to cover their tracks, but domesticated cats just use a littler box. Here are some reasons that cats use litter boxes when other animals don’t.
Cats Use Litter Boxes Instinctually
So, if you ever have a kitten blow your mind by being litter trained by round one—it’s to be expected, but not always guaranteed. One thing is for sure, kittens and cats come with built-in wiring to cover their waste. Out in nature, cats can have many predators to watch out for. Some examples might include dogs, coyotes, bobcats, mountain lions, eagles, and many other larger animals. If these animals can smell cats’ already-strong droppings, they might be hot on their trail. This is something that a lot of other animals don’t have to worry about, such as dogs, for instance. For the most part, dogs tend to be larger than cats and are more of a force to be reckoned with when it comes to predators than cats are. Dogs tend to mark an area with urine or feces in an obvious way, in order to make it obvious to other animals that they were there, whereas cats want to hide the fact that they were there. Of course, most domestic cats never have to worry about getting eaten by a predator. They are too busy snoozing in their favorite sunny window to fathom getting eaten. Regardless of our cats present day, humans have certainly gotten lucky that our cats prefer the coverage. Otherwise living with them could be quite challenging.
Image By: Lightspruch, Shutterstock
Cats Are Masters of Hygiene
Cats absolutely love keeping clean and they spend many hours a day grooming their beautiful coats. They don’t want any dirtiness clinging to them, so they meticulously stroke their coats to remove any debris. In fact, they spend up to 50% of their day keeping up with baths. They also want to use a litter box for the same reason. It keeps all their waste in one place and keeps the other areas where they live clean. So, it should make you feel good to know that cats are very clean animals, despite any setbacks with litter training. In actuality, if a cat is refusing to use the litter box, it can be because there’s a problem with some aspect of the litter box. It could be too dirty and need to be changed, or they just don’t like the litter or the litter box for some reason.
Cats Use Waste for Communication
While cats can definitely hide their poop like a pro, they also use their waste to communicate with one another— for social and mating purposes. Our cats can learn so much information about others just by giving their waste a good sniff. So, in some cases, they may not hide their waste if they have a reason to communicate with other cats. They may be looking for a mate, or want to reinforce their territory.
Image Credit: Mesa Watthanaphichai, Shutterstock
Tips for Cat Litter Training
Even though cats are very smart and just know to use the potty like a baby bird knows to eat a worm, not all will pick it up with ease. Some cats have trouble due to several different factors—but most can be summed up in the simple terms of every kitty is different. Even if it seems like your cat picked up litter training, there are still a few measures you can put in place to ensure that it sticks. If you are having issues convincing your cat to use the box, here are a few tips.
1. Start Small
At first, you won’t want to give your cat access to the full house. Partial access is fine, but realistically you will want a small space with a floor that is well-protected or at least easy to clean (like wood or laminate). Allowing your kitten too much space at first can certainly create room for secret accidents you don’t find until much later.
Image Credit: Natasha Zakharova, Shutterstock
2. Have an Easily Accessible Litter Box
Buying a litter box might seem like a no brainer but your little tyke might appreciate some help. If you get a lower litter box with an easy access point, it can help your cat remember where it is and make climbing in a breeze. Don’t put the litter box too out of the way or in noisy areas. Some folks choose to use small cardboard boxes or tin trays the first few weeks to create an easily disposable open concept for training. Ultimately, it is whatever is easiest for your cat.
3. Buy the Right Litter
There are tons of different litter box materials on the market right now. You can select from the following and then some: Clay, Silica crystals, Recycled paper, Wood, Grass seed, Pine. Ultimately, the type of litter will depend on your goal. Do you want a litter that’s natural? Easy to clump? You have options! But at first, it might be easier if your kitten learned with clay. Clay is very attractive to cats because of its texture and coverage abilities. Some cats can be picky about litter though, so if your cat isn’t using the litter despite the box being clean and easily accessible, they could prefer a different litter type. They also usually like the litter to be a few inches deep. You might have to experiment with different litters to find one your cat likes.
4. Use Positive Reinforcement
Like dogs, cats can respond well to rewards when training. If you catch your cat doing the right thing, offer them a treat. When they start to associate using the litter box with a tasty snack, they are more likely to repeat this behavior in the future. Mosty likely, you will find your cat using the litter without much prompting but if you’re having trouble, placing them in the litter box after a nap or a meal can help. At these times cats are more likely to need to “go”.
5. Keep the Litter Clean
Being fastidiously hygienic animals, cats won’t want to use a dirty litter box. A scoop out at least once a day and refreshing the litter will keep the box in acceptable condition for your cat. Every week or so you should give the litter tray a complete clean out, including washing with soap and water.
Image Credit: sandyman, Shutterstock
6. Increase Range
Once it seems like your cat has it down, you can slowly allow them access to the rest of the house. They will be able to navigate around and still find their litter box. However, if you see a regression, it might be a good idea to limit things again until they get the hand of it.
Litter Box Regression
If it seems like your cat is going backward, don’t fret. Some litter box regression during training can be normal, but it’s best to get a handle on it. Keep in mind that there is a major difference between litter box regression and other bathroom problems—like marking territory, stress-related issues, and medical problems. If you notice your cat straining, urinating in strage places, or blood in the urine you are probably dealing with a medical problem and should book a veterinary appointment. If your cat has reached roughly 6 months of age and you start noticing their urine is a bit strong, they are likely reaching sexual maturity and might very well be spraying—male or female. Spray can be difficult to remove from surfaces and fabrics (and sometimes impossible if it is allowed to build up and your cat repeatedly sprays on a certain area).
Image Credit: Cup Of Spring, Shutterstock
The Importance of Spaying and Neutering on Time
When your kitten is growing up, spay and neuter surgery is going to be a hot topic of discussion early on. Not only is it best to prevent unwanted pregnancy and reproduction, but it also curbs otherwise challenging behaviors your cat will develop. Both heat cycles and male hormones can create household chaos. It can ruin your belongings and make coexisting with your pet difficult. Many have a misconception that this surgery will cure any and all issues related to spraying. Unfortunately, that’s just not true. While it might calm down the issue, it may never cure it completely especially if you prolong the spay or neuter surgery and your cat makes a habit of it. But the sooner you have the surgery performed, the better chance you’ll have of breaking the habit.
Conclusion
How lucky are we to have capable, intelligent felines terrified of a predator catching a whiff of their poop? It doesn’t matter why in reality; it just matters that it’s super cool our cats need very little to no guidance on bathroom etiquette. Just remember, even though cats are easy to house train, they can still develop bad behaviors once they reach sexual maturity. If you haven’t done so already, call your vet to schedule a spay/neuter procedure!
Many pet owners are eager to explore new at-home diets for their cats. Research indicates that a majority of pet owners prioritize buying healthy food for their pets, sometimes even giving it more importance than other aspects. However, for those new to this concept, the process can be frustrating. It's hard to find a reliable diet, and many think it might be too costly. Interestingly, while homemade diets are a bit more expensive than commercial dry food, they are more economical than canned food.
As more owners look into fresh diets for their pets, it's crucial to keep some rules in mind. If you're curious about such a diet for your pet, read on as I highlight the main rules for this dietary transition.
The 10 Basics of a Fresh Diet for Cats:
I consider these basics to be fundamental rules for at-home diets. Not all may apply to you, but having a list of expectations helps avoid surprises.
1. Prioritize Your Health
Since most at-home cat diets involve raw meat or raw ingredients, be aware that in some cases, this might not be safe for certain people. Pregnant women, immunocompromised individuals, the elderly, young children, and others should not be near or handle raw meat. Discuss this with your healthcare provider before switching your cat's diet. Or, let your veterinary nutritionist know your circumstances so they can formulate a cooked diet for your pet.
2. Prioritize Your Cat’s Health, Too!
Image credit by: Gorodenkoff, Shutterstock
Not all cats are suitable for a raw diet. Many feline diseases can limit their ability to handle a raw diet. Have your cat checked by a veterinarian before changing their diet. Also, routinely have lab work done, like blood tests, weight checks, body condition score analysis, urinalysis, and possibly fecal tests. Your vet will decide which tests are best for your cat.
3. Select Your Pet’s Nutritionist Carefully
There are many animal nutrition courses for pet owners, but they don't cover the same syllabus as what veterinarians learn in animal nutrition specialization. Since figuring out what to feed your cat has a big medical component, it's important to have a diet formulated by a veterinarian. Your pet is unique, and a diet tailored to their health and medical status is best. Just knowing about feline nutrition isn't enough if someone isn't a veterinarian; they won't have all the knowledge to formulate a diet for pets with specific conditions.
4. Get Ready For Raw
Image Credit: Nils Jacobi, Shutterstock
For beginners in preparing at-home cat diets, raw meats are the best option. Cooking meat reduces its nutritional value significantly. Cooked diets usually need supplements to be nutritionally adequate, which might seem less "natural" to those wanting a natural diet. Most people interested in fresh diets for their pets prefer a raw diet for cats as it's the most biologically appropriate.
5. Meat Sourcing
It's recommended to source meat for human consumption and choose raw meat that has undergone quality control, like pasteurization. If you wouldn't buy it for yourself, don't buy it for your pet.
6. Hygiene
Image Credit by: Budimir Jevtic, Shutterstock
Wash hands thoroughly with disinfectant soap for at least 20 seconds before and after handling raw meats. Also, wash any surface used for cutting meat with hot water and disinfectant soap.
7. Segregation
Use different cutting boards, knives, bowls, and utensils for meat preparation. Don't use them with or store them with other kitchen items for other foods.
8. No Cats!
The kitchen is dangerous for pet cats as they can jump onto counters and get into things they shouldn't. They might be injured by kitchen appliances or sharp objects. So, don't let your cat in the kitchen.
9. … And No Other Pets, Either
Just like cats, other pets shouldn't be in the kitchen. Dogs, ferrets, or other carnivorous pets might try to steal cat food. Non-carnivorous pets might also be curious and sample the cat food.
Image Credit: New Africa, Shutterstock
10. Keep Your Expectations Realistic
While natural diets can be beneficial for some pets, most of the benefits are anecdotal and not fully verified by research. Keep your expectations realistic. A diet might help your cat, but don't think it will cure diseases or make your cat immune. Also, remember that the process of dietary transition is slow, and results take time.
Conclusion
These are my 10 essential rules for those new to fresh homemade diets for their cats. There might be other rules for your situation, but these cover most relevant aspects of homemade pet nutrition.
Some dogs only need baths very rarely, and most dogs only need to be bathed when they smell or are dirty. It's ideal to start bathing your dog occasionally when they're young so they get used to the process. Bathtime can be anxiety - filled for some pups and their owners, but if your dog has been rolling in dirt or is starting to smell, you'll be glad when you're done.
Below, we look at the steps to bathe a dog to make it as easy as possible for both you and your pet. You don't have to take your dog to professional grooming sessions every time they get dirty.
The Complete Guide on How to Give a Dog a Bath
1. Buy Supplies
You'll need dog shampoo with a pH balanced for dogs to avoid irritating their skin. Depending on the shampoo, it may contain natural ingredients to prevent itching and irritation and soothe the skin. Besides shampoo, you might want to get a face cloth and towel for your dog after the bath. Or you can use your own towels and wash them later.
Our Favorite Products
Choosing the right shampoo and conditioner is crucial for grooming your pup. Our top pick is the duo by Hepper. The Oatmeal Pet Shampoo is formulated with aloe and oatmeal to soothe skin and hydrate the coat. The Pet Conditioner helps eliminate tangles and tame frizz and static. Both products are pH - balanced and made with pet - friendly ingredients, free of harsh soaps, chemicals, and dyes. They leave your dog's coat healed, nourished, and with an appealing cucumber and aloe scent.
Before getting the dog ready for the bath, gather all you need like shampoo, towels, and a water - pouring jug. Having everything prepared means your dog won't have to wait while you search for items. Ensure the bath is ready and have extra towels near the tub in case of a mess.
3. Offer Reassurance
Image Credit: Elena Shvetsova, Shutterstock
Speak gently to your dog in a reassuring voice before, during, and after putting them in the bathtub.
4. Stay Calm
You must remain calm during the bathing process. Your dog looks to you for emotional cues. If you seem edgy or anxious, they'll likely feel the same, making bathtime more difficult. Even if your dog wriggles or tries to escape, stay calm, remembering it's more stressful for them than for you.
5. Brush the Coat
Image Credit: SasPartout, Shutterstock
Before putting your dog in the bath, brush their fur to remove knots and loosen dirt and debris. A dog with matted fur in the bath will retain water and may develop skin irritations.
6. Wet the Coat
Make sure the water is warm, not too hot or cold. Test it to ensure it's slightly warmer than lukewarm. Wet the body, legs, and tail, but avoid soaking the face as most dogs dislike it. Ensure the coat is wet from tip to base.
7. Apply Shampoo
Image Credit: andriano.cz, Shutterstock
Apply a small amount of shampoo and rub it into the coat to create a good lather. Spread it over the whole body, including the belly, legs, and around the tail. Pay extra attention to the tail and rear end as many dog smells come from these areas.
8. Clean the Face Gently
Use a damp cloth to clean around the face, especially the mouth and eyes. Be careful not to get water in the eyes. Don't use shampoo on the face as it can cause discomfort if it gets in the eyes and may affect your dog's reaction to future baths.
9. Rinse
Image By: Ultraskrip, Shutterstock
Don't leave shampoo in the dog's coat as it can be irritating when it dries. After soaping thoroughly, rinse out every bit of shampoo with warm water. Depending on fur density, you may need to rinse for several minutes.
10. Dry
You can use a towel to dry your dog. Many dogs like being rubbed dry, which is also a good time to rub and massage them. Ensure they're completely dry, especially before going outside, or they'll get dirty again. You can use a hairdryer on the cool air setting with low power, keeping the nozzle away from the skin.
11. Praise and Reward
Image Credit: Iryna Imago, Shutterstock
When done, praise and reward your dog with lots of attention and their favorite treats. Also, make sure their water bowl is full as the stress from the bath may make them thirsty. Making it a positive experience will help your dog associate baths with treats and make future baths easier.
How Often Should I Bathe My Dog?
You don't need to bathe a dog unless they smell or are dirty. Bathing too often can damage the coat and is especially bad for dogs with sensitive skin. Generally, bathing every 3 months is good, but if your dog gets smelly or dirty often, you can bathe them monthly.
Do I Have to Bathe My Dog?
It isn't necessary to bathe a dog unless it needs it. Dogs with skin allergies may need baths with prescription shampoos, but the frequency depends on vet recommendations.
Conclusion
Bathing a dog can be challenging for some owners. Start when they're young so they get used to it. Make it a positive experience, avoid wetting or soaping the face, and offer treats and rewards after the bath. When you praise and reward, your dog will associate baths with a positive outcome and be less likely to resist next time.
For centuries, silver has been recognized for its ability to combat microbes. Although its popularity declined with the advent of antibiotics, silver has regained attention in recent years due to growing antibiotic resistance. In fact, thousands of silver-infused products have been developed over the past ten years.
One area where silver has become popular again is pet care. Many pet owners now turn to colloidal silver, spurred by online claims that it can treat various health problems. But what does the science actually say? And more importantly, is colloidal silver safe for dogs? Let’s dive into the topic.
Silver is an element naturally present in the environment, typically combined with substances like sulfide or nitrate. A colloid, according to Cambridge Dictionary, is a mixture where fine particles are suspended throughout another substance. In this case, colloidal silver means tiny silver particles dispersed in liquid.
Colloidal silver is used in both industrial and personal products. People have employed it to address skin conditions, respiratory allergies, and infections. It is also found in hygiene products like body wash and deodorants. Still, its health benefits are not strongly supported by modern science, and its safety profile has come under scrutiny in recent years.
How Is Colloidal Silver Used for Dogs?
Many dog owners apply colloidal silver topically to treat wounds, burns, or skin infections. Some even use it in the ears to handle infections or give it orally hoping it helps with internal problems like digestive issues or respiratory illnesses.
Another common use is as an eye rinse, particularly in cases of conjunctivitis. Some people also add it to their dog's drinking water, although this use is more controversial.
Are There Health Benefits?
Supporters claim colloidal silver has antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties. While lab tests show silver can kill certain bacteria and fungi, this doesn’t always translate into clinical benefits for pets. Studies in humans and animals are limited, and few have evaluated the long-term outcomes or safety in dogs.
Some believe colloidal silver may boost the immune system, improve wound healing, or act as a natural antibiotic. However, these benefits are mostly anecdotal and not widely supported by veterinarians or clinical studies.
Is Colloidal Silver Safe for Dogs?
This is the most important question. While small amounts of silver may not cause immediate harm, regular or high doses can pose risks. One of the most well-known concerns is a condition called argyria—a permanent blue-gray discoloration of the skin—though it is extremely rare in animals.
More commonly, overuse could lead to kidney damage, gastrointestinal upset, or interference with the absorption of medications. The FDA has warned that colloidal silver is not considered safe or effective for treating any disease, and its use in animals is not officially approved.
Conclusion: Should You Use Colloidal Silver for Your Dog?
While the idea of a natural, multi-purpose remedy like colloidal silver is appealing, current research doesn’t strongly support its use in pets. Occasional, careful topical use may be harmless, but giving it orally or using it regularly could be risky without veterinary guidance.
Before trying any alternative treatment, including colloidal silver, always consult your vet. They can help determine the safest, most effective options tailored to your dog’s health needs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Colloidal Silver Safe for Dogs?
It may be safe in small, infrequent topical amounts, but long-term or oral use poses risks. Consult your veterinarian before using it.
How Can I Use Colloidal Silver for Dogs?
It’s commonly applied to minor cuts, skin infections, or used sparingly in eyes or ears. Oral use should be avoided unless advised by a vet.
What Are the Side Effects?
Possible side effects include digestive upset, kidney strain, or interactions with medications. Long-term use could result in silver accumulation in the body.
Can It Be Used for Dog Eye Problems?
Some use it to relieve mild eye irritation or discharge. However, specialized veterinary eye drops are typically safer and more effective.
Are There Safer Natural Alternatives?
Yes, other natural remedies with better safety profiles include coconut oil (for skin), chamomile (for calming), and vet-recommended probiotics for gut health. Always ask your vet before starting any supplement or remedy.
We rate the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder 4.9 out of 5 stars.
Quality: 4.9/5
Effectiveness: 4.8/5
Durability: 4.8/5
Value: 5/5
Check Price on Messy Mutts
If you have a chubby cat or a food-obsessed feline, you might have thought about using a slow feeder. But finding an effective and quality one for cats can be tough. I know, I've been searching for one for my hungry house cat for months. Thanks to Messy Mutts, I think I've finally found it. The Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder is the right size for cat-sized meals and is made for felines' short snouts. It's dishwasher safe and works well for both canned food and kibble. Most importantly, it's durable and made to slow feeding without frustrating the cat.
Find out what I like about this product, how my cat feels about it, and more in my full Messy Mutts Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder review, below.
About Messy Mutts
Messy Mutts started with a simple idea: Create functional and good-looking pet products that help reduce the mess while fitting seamlessly into home decor. This idea grew from dog-centered grooming and feeding supplies to include a whole line of cat products. This “Messy Cats” line includes cat feeders, litter box accessories, and food prep products.
Where Are Messy Mutt Products Produced?
Messy Mutts, owned by Jascor Housewares Inc., is based in Toronto, Canada. Most of their products are made in China using food-safe rubber, BPA-free plastic, and stainless steel.
Which Type of Cat Is the Messy Cat Interactive Slow Feeder Best Suited For?
The Messy Cat Interactive Slow Feeder is great for cats that eat their food too fast and still think they're hungry afterward. The bowl's unique design makes cats eat slower without getting frustrated or confused. It's not a puzzle feeder that makes your cat solve problems to get to the food. Instead, the high ridges stop your cat from taking big bites, effectively lengthening the eating process. This helps cats avoid regurgitation and feel more satisfied when they finish eating.
Overview
Check Price on Messy Mutts
Here's an overview of the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder by Messy Mutts. We'll look at what it's made of, how it works, care instructions, and the technical specs.
Materials
The Messy Cat Interactive Slow Feeder bowl is made of food-safe rubber and BPA-free plastic. The central part, which is dark gray, is plastic with ridges of different heights. This material is chew-resistant and hard enough to keep its shape, making your cat work to get to the food. The light gray outer ring and base of the slow feeder bowl are made of food-safe rubber. This softer material around the feeder means there are no hard or sharp edges to worry about. There are nine suction cups made of food-safe rubber built into the bottom of the shell to hold the feeder in place when it's in use.
How It Works
This slow feeder bowl works like most dog slow feeders. The raised ridges in the middle stop cats from taking big bites of food. Instead, they have to use their tongue and muzzle to move pieces until they can grab them, effectively slowing down the eating process. Unlike dog slow feeders, which usually have deep ridges and narrow gaps to force dogs to use their long tongues, this feeder has shallower, wider areas. Since cats have shorter, less dexterous tongues and short muzzles, this feeder works better for them than those made for dogs. This feeder can be used with kibble, canned food, and raw food.
Care
Caring for this slow feeder bowl is easy. It's dishwasher safe, so you can put it on the top rack when it gets dirty. The curved ridges don't hold food like other puzzle feeders, making it easy to rinse off between deeper cleanings. You'll need to rinse the bottom suction cups occasionally, especially if you feed kibble that leaves dust and grease. The Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder is made to keep its shape and color for years.
Specifications
This feeder is six inches in diameter, making it small and compact. It can hold ¼ cup of dry food or about one 3-ounce can of wet food. It's only available in one color, cool gray. Like most other Messy Mutts products, this one comes with a one-year manufacturer warranty.
Pros & Cons
Pros
Easy to use
Dishwasher safe
Small and compact
Durable yet lightweight
Works for all kinds of food
Cons
Suction cups don't stick long
Only one color available
Limited holding capacity
Key Features
Check Price on Messy Mutts
Built For Cats
This slow feeder is designed for a cat's anatomical proportions. The ridges are relatively shallow and the spaces between them are wider than most dog slow feeders. This allows cats to get kibbles and mouthfuls of wet food without frustration while still slowing their eating significantly. The small size and gripping suction cups are also suitable for cats and their owners.
Easy to Use and Care For
This slow feeder is very easy to use, even for beginner cats and their owners. It's not a puzzle feeder, so your cat doesn't have to struggle to get the food. Instead, they can eat the way they normally do, but it will take them much longer to finish the bowl. As for care, this slow feeder is very simple to maintain. It's easy to clean by hand because of the wide gaps and curved ridges. Or you can put it in the dishwasher for a thorough cleaning without much effort.
Works with All Kinds of Food
Whether you feed dry food, canned food, or something in between, this feeder is a great choice. It can hold up to ¼ cup of dry, freeze-dried, or air-dried food or a small can of wet food. For wet food, just use a rubber spatula to push it into the crevices. You can also use this feeder with raw diets, but make sure to wash it between each use.
Is the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder a Good Value?
Yes, at only $10, this slow feeder is a great deal. Most similar feeders cost much more. And those that cost less are often only made of silicone, which isn't as durable as the plastic-rubber combination used for this bowl.
Check Price on Messy Mutts
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is this bowl easy to keep clean?
Yes. Unlike many slow feeders and puzzle feeders, there are no places where kibble and wet food can get stuck in this feeder, making it easier to clean. It's very easy to rinse off and dishwasher safe.
Do the suction cups work on all surfaces?
You need to use this bowl on a clean, smooth surface for the suction cups to work. It will work on smooth plastic or vinyl feeding mats but not the textured ones. It works best on granite, finished wood, and tile.
Our Experience With the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder
I've been looking for a slow feeder for my hungry cat, Makoa, for a long time. He's a big food lover and likes to gobble up his food as fast as he can and then say he's still hungry. This is an extra problem because he also has pica, which means he likes to eat non-food items. So, it's even more important that he feels full after eating. A slow feeder is the perfect solution for his problems because it lengthens the eating process (giving him a healthy activity) while helping him feel fuller when he's done. The problem is, Makoa eats silicone, which most cat slow feeders are made of, and he can't smell well either. I've tried a variety of special feeder options for him. Puzzle feeders don't work because he can't smell the food well enough to find it. And the silicone ones just end up becoming food for him. Luckily, the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder has the right combination of features for my special little guy. While this feeder has some food-safe rubber on the sides, the food contact points are made of hard plastic that Makoa can't chew. And unlike plastic feeder bowls for dogs, the ridges on this one are shallow, which means even my nose-blind kitty can get all the kibbles out relatively easily. While this bowl doesn't cause any frustration, it still does a great job of slowing him down. He used to finish a bowl of kibble in about three minutes. Now it takes him at least ten, and he often takes breaks in between. This helps stretch meals out for up to an hour. Not only does this keep him entertained, but it also seems to make him feel more satisfied when he's finished. I've noticed a big decrease in his food-seeking behavior since he got this slow feeder. On my part, I like that this thing is dishwasher-safe and very easy to rinse off between washings. All the ridges are smooth, so there are no corners for food to get stuck in. There's even no gap between the plastic and rubber edge, which means food can't collect there either. The size of this bowl is about right for the amount of food Makoa gets each meal. However, if he got any more, it would get messy quickly. Even when just feeding ¼ cup of dry food for dinner, a few kibbles end up on the counter around the feeder. This doesn't bother me too much because it just adds to the time it takes him to eat everything, but owners who want to keep a cleaner home might see this as a drawback. But my biggest complaint about this dish is the suction cups. These cups are very strong and do a great job of keeping the bowl in place during feeding. This is especially true if you're using it on a hard, smooth surface like granite or tile. But the suction doesn't last long on any surface. After about ten minutes, the suction cups release. This isn't a huge problem since they also act as an effective anti-slip device. But for smart cats, it wouldn't take much to lift the whole bowl up and dump the food out. For me personally, the suction cups not staying engaged means I have to be careful to put this bowl away between feedings so Makoa doesn't carry it off and use it as a chew toy. But overall, this slow feeder has been a big success for my household. I have been and will continue to use it for Makoa at every meal. He seems to enjoy the challenge of getting all the food out, and I like that it gives him some quality enrichment while helping him feel fuller.
Conclusion
If your cat needs some help eating slower at mealtime, I highly recommend checking out the Messy Cats Interactive Slow Feeder from Messy Mutts. This slow feeder was designed specifically for cats to help them eat slower so they can feel fuller while getting some much-needed enrichment. The design is perfect for those short muzzles and makes cleaning the feeder easy. Plus, this slow feeder is durable, affordable, and dishwasher-safe.
